San Francisco vacation rental Activities Golden Gate Bridge Cable Cars Alcatraz Island

CALIFORNIA VACATION RENTALS - SAN FRANCISCO APARTMENT

GOLDEN GATE BRIDGE 

The year 2005 marks the 68th birthday of possibly the most beautiful, and certainly the most photographed, bridge in the world. Often half-veiled by the city's trademark rolling fog, San Francisco's Golden Gate Bridge spans tidal currents, ocean waves, and battering winds to connect the City by the Bay with the Redwood Empire to the north.

With its gracefully swung single span, spidery bracing cables, and zooming twin towers, the bridge looks more like a work of abstract art than one of the 20th century's greatest practical engineering feats. Construction was completed in May 1937 at the then-colossal cost of $35 million.

The mile-long steel link (longer if you factor in the approach), which reaches a height of 746 feet above the water, is an awesome bridge to cross. Traffic usually moves quickly, so crossing by car won't give you too much time to see the sights. If you drive from the city, park in the lot at the foot of the bridge on the city side and make the crossing by foot. Back in your car, continue to Marin's Vista Point, at the bridge's northern end. Look back, and you'll be rewarded with one of the greatest views of San Francisco.

Millions of pedestrians walk or bike across the bridge each year, gazing up at the tall red towers, out at the vistas of San Francisco and Marin County, and down into the stacks of oceangoing liners. You can walk out onto the span from either end, but be prepared -- it's usually windy and cold, and the bridge vibrates. Still, walking even a short distance is one of the best ways to experience the immense scale of the structure.

Cable Cars

Although they may not be San Francisco's most practical means of transportation, cable cars are certainly the best loved and are a must-experience when visiting the city. Designated official historic landmarks by the National Park Service in 1964, they clank up and down the city's steep hills like mobile museum pieces, tirelessly hauling thousands of tourists each day to nowhere in particular.

London-born engineer Andrew Hallidie invented San Francisco's cable cars in 1869. He got the idea by serendipity. As the story goes, Hallidie was watching a team of overworked horses haul a heavily laden carriage up a steep San Francisco slope. As he watched, one horse slipped and the car rolled back, dragging the other tired beasts with it. At that moment, Hallidie resolved that he would invent a mechanical contraption to replace such horses, and just 4 years later, in 1873, the first cable car made its maiden run from the top of Clay Street. Promptly ridiculed as "Hallidie's Folly," the cars were slow to gain acceptance. One early onlooker voiced the general opinion by exclaiming, "I don't believe it -- the damned thing works!"

Even today, many visitors have difficulty believing that these vehicles, which have no engines, actually work. The cars, each weighing about 6 tons, run along a steel cable, enclosed under the street in a center rail. You can't see the cable unless you peer straight down into the crack, but you'll hear its characteristic clickity-clanking sound whenever you're nearby. The cars move when the gripper (not the driver) pulls back a lever that closes a pincerlike "grip" on the cable. The speed of the car, therefore, is determined by the speed of the cable, which is a constant 9 1/2 miles per hour -- never more, never less.

The two types of cable cars in use hold a maximum of 90 and 100 passengers, and the limits are rigidly enforced. The best views are from the outer running boards, where you have to hold on tightly when taking curves. Everyone, it seems, prefers to ride on the running boards.

San Francisco's three existing lines form the world's only surviving system of cable cars, which you can experience for yourself should you choose to wait in the endless boarding line (up to a 2-hr. wait in summer).

Alcatraz Island



Visible from Fisherman's Wharf, Alcatraz Island (aka "The Rock") has seen a checkered history. Juan Manuel Ayala discovered it in 1775 and named it after the many pelicans that nested on the island. From the 1850s to 1933, when the army vacated the island, it served as a military post, protecting the bay's shoreline. In 1934, the government converted the buildings of the military outpost into a maximum-security prison. Given the sheer cliffs, treacherous tides and currents, and frigid water temperatures, it was believed to be a totally escape-proof prison. Among the famous gangsters who occupied cell blocks A through D were Al Capone, Robert Stroud, the so-called Birdman of Alcatraz (because he was an expert in ornithological diseases), Machine Gun Kelly, and Alvin Karpis. It cost a fortune to keep them imprisoned here because all supplies, including water, had to be shipped in. In 1963, after an apparent escape in which no bodies were recovered, the government closed the prison. In 1969, a group of Native Americans chartered a boat to the island to symbolically reclaim the island for the Indian people. They occupied the island until 1971, the longest occupation of a federal facility by Native Americans to this day, when they were forcibly removed by the U.S. government (see www.nps.gov/alcatraz/indian.html for more information on the Native American occupation of Alcatraz). The next year the island became part of the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. The wildlife that was driven away during the military and prison years has begun to return -- the black-crested night heron and other seabirds are nesting here again -- and a new trail passes through the island's nature areas. Tours, including an audio tour of the prison block and a slide show, are given by the park's rangers, who entertain their guests with interesting anecdotes.

Allow about 2 1/2 hours for the round-trip and the tour. Wear comfortable shoes and take a heavy sweater or windbreaker, because even when the sun's out, it's cold. The National Park Service also notes that there are a lot of hills to climb on the tour. The excursion is popular and space is limited, so purchase tickets as far in advance as possible. Blue & Gold Fleet (tel. 415/705-5555; www.blueandgoldfleet.com) operates the tour; they accept American Express, MasterCard, and Visa, and there's a $2.25-per-ticket service charge for phone orders. You can also buy tickets in advance from the Blue & Gold ticket office on Pier 41 or online at www.telesails.com. "Alcatraz After Dark" tours are available Thursday through Sunday. The tour is a more intimate and wonderfully spooky experience, and the proceeds go to restoration and preservation projects. Check the Blue & Gold Fleet website for updated prices and departure times.

For those who want to get a closer look at Alcatraz without going ashore, two boat-tour operators offer short circumnavigations of the island.

RESTAURANTS WITHIN WALKING DISTANCE
*** Our Family Favorites



***2223 Market: 2223 Market has managed to survive for several years without even hanging a sign outside -- just look for the burnt-orange exterior and the street address. Its success rests on great cocktails (including the giant martinis) and a good wine list, which includes some well-chosen French and California wines. It boasts a varying menu of dependable California cuisine, featuring gourmet pizza and entrees with mainly Mediterranean influences. 2223's bright, sunny, art-filled interior and key position in a prime crowd-gazing portion of Market make it a good bet for casual drinks or a semi-formal dinner. 2223 Market St., (415) 431-0692.

A.G. Ferrari: At this Italian gourmet food store, you can create a quick dinner with fresh and packaged pastas and sauces, fine cheeses, fresh baked bread, quality olives, olive oils, vinegars and more. Prepared foods, including panini sandwiches, salads and strudel, are also available for lunch in a hurry. 468 Castro St. (between Market and 18th streets); (415) 255-6590.

Anchor Oyster Bar and Seafood Market: Located on a less-traveled (and constantly morphing) block of Castro Street, Anchor is a classic seafood bar (est. 1977) with diner-style counter service and clean, no-frills tile-and-chrome decor. There's no earthly reason to take guests to Fisherman's Wharf to get New England Clam Chowder, freshly-shucked oysters, or fresh crab. You can even get fresh oysters to go. 579 Castro St. (at 19th), (415) 431-3990. 

***Blue: Blue has become a popular hangout along the Market Street corridor by providing great views of the busy sidewalk outside and serving dependable American diner fare (a.k.a. "comfort food") with a gourmet twist. 2337 Market St., (415) 863-2583.

Café Cuvée: French (especially Provencal) flavors and fresh produce motivate discriminating diners to venture a few blocks further down Market Street to this intimate spot on a busy intersection. Try the shirred eggs at brunch or the Provencal roasted chicken at dinnertime. 2073 Market St. (at Church), 621-7488.

***Café Flore Locals used to call it "Cafe Be Seen" for its remarkable magnetic power to attract big fish from the Castro's bohemian performance/music/film pond. With its giant wrap-around patio flanking Market and Noe streets, Cafe Flore is not the place to hide on laundry day -- unless you happen to own a pair of fabulous cat-eye sunglasses -- as you're bound to run into someone you know. Inside the glass walls, there's an espresso bar offering Italian sodas, pastries, all manner of coffee drinks, beer and wine. The kitchen, an order-at-the-counter affair, has a good selection of healthy salads and sandwiches. But remember to secure an outside table before you stand in line -- the Flore is usually full up with dawdlers, scribbling in their journals or chatting about the newest underground performance art. (Jan Richman) 2298 Market St., (415) 621-8579.

***Caffe Luna Piena: In San Francisco, brunch + patio is a magical combination. It's been so successful for Caffe Luna Piena that they serve brunch every day. On cool nights, the wooden deck at this small restaurant is covered with canvas awnings and warmed by space heaters. But on sunny days, the awnings are drawn back and the heaters turned off, making the space feel as comfortable and casual as the patio at someone's home. Brunch consists of standard breakfast and lunch fare including lots of egg dishes, salads and sandwiches; standouts include the fluffy omelet and almond French toast. The regular menu is also straightforward, with appetizers, pastas and entrees that are usually well-executed although not necessarily exciting. The friendly staff chats easily with customers and goes out of their way to make everyone happy, and prices are equally friendly. 558 Castro St. (between 18th and 19th streets),  621-2566.

***Chow: Tony Gulisano offers eclectic food such as grilled chicken, pizza, spaghetti and meat balls, and Asian noodles. The gingerbread cake and pies, especially pecan, are winners. (-SF Chronicle) 215 Church St. (near Market), (415) 552-2469. Also at 1240 Ninth Ave., San Francisco, and 53 Lafayette Circle, Lafayette.

Cote Sud: With a warm atmosphere and an enclosed terrace, Cote Sud has all the charm of a southern French home, with just enough edge to fit comfortably into its urban location. The cassoulet alone is worth the trip, especially when paired with the beet salad or the mussels as a starter. The chicken and any dish that's served in a casserole and dished up tableside are also recommended. Other preparations, unfortunately, can be lacking, despite the all-organic ingredients. The wine list offers some out-of-the-ordinary selections from excellent producers, and prices are reasonable. (-SF Chronicle and SF Gate) 4238 18th St. (near Diamond), (415) 255-6565.

Courtney Produce: Fresh juices and sandwiches, farmers' market produce, good prices and friendly people make this tiny corner store a neighborhood gem.  101 Castro St. #A (at 14th), (415) 626-1850.

Cove Cafe: Where can you find a rack of hunks with burly chests, handlebar mustaches, chaps, hankies (tucked squarely in back pockets), white tank tops, cowboy hats, leather vests, tool belts, canary yellow hard hats, Doc Martens, Foster Grant sunglasses, beer bellies and lots and lots of hair? Oh my ... At the Cove Cafe, not only is it raining men (as in the tune by the Weather Girls), but it showers customers with tasty dishes.  434 Castro St. (between 17th and 18th streets.) (415) 626-0462.

Daimaru Sushi: Pristine sushi is heavenly at this simple, serene corner spot. Cooked dishes, however, lack the same sparkle. Service, especially at the sushi bar, is very friendly and gives the restaurant a wonderful communal feeling. (-SF Chronicle) 290 Sanchez (at 16th Street), (415) 863-9128.

Firewood: Homey and dependable, if unexciting, Italian fare. Best bets include rotisserie chicken, pizzas and tortellini. Lettuce salads are big enough for two. Food generally comes quickly, and the surroundings are much more pleasant than you'd expect given the bargain pricing. Single diners can sit at a counter defined by elongated orange pendant lights, overlooking 18th Street, or at a long, communal pine table that stretches down the center of the room. The gold color scheme and painted concrete and slate floors add a modern look. A room in back accommodates additional diners. Skip dessert and get ice cream at Ben & Jerry's on Castro instead. (-SF Chronicle and SF Gate) 4248 18th St. (near Diamond), (415) 252-0999.

Fuzio: Chevy Inc. started its Fuzio chain with this wildly popular location in the Castro. The decor is as comfortably stylish as any neighborhood restaurant, but the place packs in the crowds for the food. Pasta dishes from around the world are tasty and affordable, and get to the table fast. One downside: All the hard surfaces coupled with an open kitchen and tons of people makes for an ear-numbingly loud experience. (-SF Chronicle and SF Gate) 469 Castro St. (near 17th Street), (415) 863-1400.

***Harvest Ranch Market: This popular boutique mini-mart provides a nice alternative to sit-down restaurant fare if you're in a hurry. Feast on locally-made breads (Acme, Grace, Metropolis and Il Fornaio), imported cheese, organic produce and a variety of health-food products similar to those carried by chains like Whole Foods. Harvest is also a good place to pick up quality pre-made foods, like wraps, pasta, sandwiches, soups, veggie sushi rolls, big brownies and cookies, and excellent (but expensive) pre-made rice and vegetarian/vegan salads. The sidewalk outside the store sometimes turns into an impromptu picnic area, especially on sunny weekend afternoons. 2285 Market St. (at Noe), (415) 626-0805.

***Home: What was once swanky JohnFrank during the dot-com boom has been transformed into a cozy spot with reasonably priced, comforting food that people these days can't get enough of. Those who like a little Sunday brunch pick-me-up can hit the make-your-own-Bloody Mary bar. For $3, a server brings a glass with ice and a shot of vodka. You slide over to the fixings bar and add tomato juice or Mary mix, all manner of spices, hot sauces, Worcestershire, lemon or lime and a salad bowl full of garnishes from spicy green beans to anchovy-stuffed olives to the requisite celery. (Brunch is served from 11 a.m.-3 p.m.) 2100 Market St. (at Church), (415) 503-0333.

Hot Cookie: Snickerdoodles and assorted macadamia nut cookies join old favorites, like chocolate chip and brownies, in the lineup with rum balls and macaroons thrown in for good measure. As the name implies, they're fresh out of the oven. (--SF Chronicle) 407 Castro St. (at Market and 17th streets), 621-2350.

Joseph Schmidt Confections: Anyone who would spend hours constructing intricate chocolate sculptures is clearly dedicated to his art. Joseph Schmidt might actually be obsessed, which can only mean good things for the rest of us. He sells handmolded pieces of Belgian chocolate, in addition to his signature egg-shaped truffles and European-style confections. Near holidays the store gets so busy it can be hard to open the door -- everyone's vying for the new seasonal "collections," elegantly wrapped for their chocolate-loving loved ones. 3489 16th St., (415) 861-8682.)


Restaurant La Mooné: The Castro's food reputation has been improving of late, and here's another reason why. Great service, a lot of community spirit, a cute little cocktail bar and Pan-Asian flair make La Mooné a top neighborhood pick. 4072 18th St. (at Castro), (415) 355-1999.

La Tasca: For many years, before becoming La Tasca, the restaurant was Carta and then Paisley. Now the menu, as executed by chef Juan Pujol, concentrates on the food of Spain. Sunday brunch is something else here, with local MC and performer Steven LeMay hosting a drag bingo party. 1772 Market St. (at Valencia St.), (415) 863-3516.

***Lime: An eclectic small-plates menu in an eclectic atmosphere. Servers' thick white belts match the white pleather booths, where diners bask beneath the pink back-lit mirrors that line the ceiling. Monitors are embedded in the marble bar and bathroom mirror for those seeking more eye candy. Diners can dip triangles of grilled cheese into a Campbell's-inspired tomato sauce, and Moroccan-spiced lamb chops into minty yogurt. Cornmeal-crusted halibut joins guacamole in mini tacos, and grilled shrimp partners with a green papaya salad.The short dessert list includes chocolate cake with a pitcher of hot fudge and chocolate sorbet, and a trio of mini pot de cremes.  2247 Market St. (between 15th and 16th streets), 621-5256.

Ma Tante Sumi: Imagine traditional French fish, meat and poultry dishes complemented with Asian ingredients like wasabi, ginger, enoki or shiitake mushrooms. Now take that wonderful Franco-Asian fusion concept and put it in a cute little space on 18th Street. Result? A little touch of class in the ever-improving Castro culinary universe. 4243 18th St., (415) 355-1999.

Mecca: This popular haunt on Market Street, though ugly on the outside, is beautiful on the inside, both in terms of clientele and décor. A tasty Mediterranean menu and sultry ambiance attract crowds. Sunday supper, from 4-7 p.m. each Sunday, features a three-course Southern comfort menu for $19.95. 2029 Market St., (415) 621-7000.

Red Grill and Whiskey Lounge: A good old-fashioned steakhouse with a touch of Castro quirkiness, Red Grill is a great value with most entrees priced around $19. Snug tables fill the main dining room, while the lounge upstairs features a long mirror-backed bar and overstuffed furniture grouped around a fireplace. There's also a heated enclosed patio in the back. 4063 18th St. (near Castro), (415) 255-2733.

Samovar Tea Lounge: Tea aficionados and those looking for a break from coffee culture have a retreat in Samovar Tea Lounge, where more than 100 whole-leaf teas and herbal infusions from around the globe are offered in a contemporary, Zen-like environment. For the tea connoisseur, there's monkey-picked Iron Goddess of Mercy oolong or vintage teas like the 1930 pu-erh. Other options include iced green Moroccan mint tea or organic snow bud white tea. If you can't decide, take the tour of tea sampler on Tuesdays from 5 to 9 p.m. (reservations required). Samovar also offers a range of globally inspired breakfast items and small plates. Accompany your tea with Sylvie's homemade scones with Devonshire cream, vegetable samosas with tomato chutney or a tea-smoked chicken sandwich -- all while enjoying Samovar's warm mustard-colored walls, multi-colored cushions and tea accoutrements. (-- SF Chronicle) 498 Sanchez St. (at 18th Street), San Francisco; (415) 626-4700.

Sparky's: For average all-American, all-night food served in too-bright surroundings by people who shouldn't still be awake, Sparky's is perfect. Stick with the basics. Try to soak up what's in your stomach and relish the fact that other patrons are worse off than you. 242 Church St., (415) 626-8666.

******Squat and Gobble: The Squat & Gobble is a no-nonsense chain of about 5 restaurants in the the San Francisco area where you can get plentiful helpings of food at a reasonable price. Once you step inside the door, the menu is displayed in large format on the wall - divided by various categories such as Vegetarian, Eggs, etc. Once you have decided what you want, you place your order and are given a number to place on the table of your choice. It is not too long before the delicious meal arrives.3600 - 16th Street @ Market and Noe.  Our FAVORITE FAST AND EASY BREAKFAST

Sweet Inspiration: Did someone say dessert? Favorites in the mesmerizing pastry case are tiramisu and the black-bottom tart -- a devilish combination of blackberries and chocolate custard -- though it's hard to go wrong with any of the cookies, pies, tarts and cakes. Coffee and various coffee drinks are also served. Things are kind of pricey but the portions are large, and your best bet for ambiance is near the window, for people-watching. (--SF Chronicle and SF Gate) 2239 Market St. (near Sanchez); (415) 621-8664.

Tallula: European-influenced Indian snacks and heartier dishes are served in this multileveled space, which starts off in a small lounge serving sake cocktails. Two flights of stairs lead to several tiny, cozy dining rooms decorated in earth tones. Diners start with complimentary spiced fried chickpeas, then go onto things like lobster and corn dhosa (Indian-style crepes) and a house salad of shredded radishes, cucumber and jicama topped with crispy noodles. Larger dishes include fennel-crusted golden trout topped with a lemony vinaigrette and tandoori flank steak with cashewed spinach. (--SF Chronicle) 4230 18th St. (at Diamond), (415) 437-6722. Dinner Wednesday-Monday.

***Thai House #2: Best bets are the interesting appetizers, rich soups and warm salads at this pleasant restaurant, which is run by Krittiya Meeriyagerd. One of the best versions of larb gai can be found here, and the tom yum goong sour shrimp soup will cure any blocked sinuses as it satisfies the stomach. One caveat: unless you like thick oily sauces, it's best to avoid anything on the menu that refers to a special sauce or the chef's secret sauce. Service is warm and attentive, and regulars have learned that they can bring their own beer or wine. Meeriyagerd's family is involved in a French-Thai restaurant in Bangkok, and she hopes to continually bring back a fresh supply of recipes. 2200 Market St. (at 15th Street), (415) 864-5006.

Tita's Hale Aina: If you're tired of tapas, try South Pacific pupus like coconut-crusted shrimp or main courses like Kalua pig, which is pork wrapped in fragrant ti leaves and slow-cooked until meat falls away from the bones. There's a special dish for each day of the week, and on the last Friday of every month, diners can feast on lau laus -- tender meats or salmon steamed for seven hours. Tita's uses products from the Pacific Islands -- macadamia nuts, coconut, ginger, and frui -- to create both sweet and savory dishes. You'll find the influence of other Asian cuisines on the menu as well. 3870 17th St. (near Noe), 626-2477.

Welcome Home: Settle down to some fluffy pancakes or chicken-fried steak at this welcoming café right in the middle of the Castro, and look out for locals from a variety of "scenes," from circuit boys to clean-cut types coming straight from Sunday services at Metropolitan Community Church. 464 Castro St., 626-3600.

Yokoso Nippon Sushi: One of the key delights of eating sushi is finding your own special neighborhood haunt (or even dive) that has low prices, dependable service, and fresh fish. You'll definitely get that feeling of discovery at Yokoso Nippon, otherwise known as "No Name Sushi." There's no sign, no phone, no alcohol for sale, and it's a cash-only enterprise. Sure, it's low on ambiance, at least the private tatami room and revolving-sushi-boat kind, but you'll enjoy the low prices, good sushi, and a smug sense that you're a San Francisco Sushi insider. 314 Church St. (at 15th).

Phone: (916) 789-7736     Fax: (916) 789-7547

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